The lyrics not only embody the spirit of Spicemas, it also serves as a reminder to all those who visit: rebellion is at the heart of this Carnival celebration.  

I’ve been to a few Carnivals in the Caribbean but since I’ve returned from the Isle of Spice, I can't stop thinking about what I experienced during Spicemas. The country of Grenada is made up of the main island, Grenada, along with two smaller islands: Carriacou and Petite Martinique. However, St. Georges, Grenada is where most locals and foreigners gather to relish the countless festivities every August. Boasting a Carnival experience like no other, Spicemas’ offering is unique, and prideful. Simply put, Spicemas is unlike anything you’ve ever seen or felt before.

In the wake of Hurricane Beryl's devastation, I was deeply moved by Grenada's resilience. I feel profoundly privileged to have experienced Spicemas, immersing myself in the joyous festivities that reflected the strength and spirit of the people even in the face of challenges.

If you’re considering booking a trip for Grenada Spicemas next year, here are some things you should know.

Soca Monarch

Apart from the road experience, I like to think of Grenada’s Soca Monarch as a can’t miss event when on the island during Spicemas. Told by many locals that it’s one of the best in the region, it lived up to the hype and exceeded all expectations. Held on Carnival Friday, the Soca Monarch competition showcases contestants competing for two titles: the Power Soca Monarch for fast-paced songs (135 bpm+) and the Groovy Soca Monarch for slower-paced songs (134 bpm or less.) During Soca Monarch, I was surrounded by a sea of red, yellow and green as locals proudly recited every song that was performed by Grenadian artists including Dash, Lil Kerry and Boyzie. Parts of the venue erupted into literal flames facilitated by spray cans and materials being lit on fire to showcase their excitement and tradition.

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At one point, it started to rain but the crowd was unmoved. Participants ran to the sounds of soca and rejoiced in the downpour. Wanting to get the full, Spicemas experience, I dropped my umbrella on the floor and danced with the crowd as entertainers stage-dived and made their way to the pit to dial up the theatrics of it all.  

J’ouvert (JabJab)

Before venturing to Grenada, there was one experience I was most excited to partake in and that was to ‘play jab,’ a post-emancipation masquerade rooted in African customs and traditions.

A departure from the pretty mas portrayals I typically yearn for when I venture to my annual trip to Trinidad Carnival, my spirit was calling to experience the masquerade that is so unique to Grenada. Taking place bright and early Monday morning, I was instructed to rub black oil or charcoal all over my body. As I looked around, I saw bodies submerged in oil to the point we all resembled the pavement, an active reminder why we were gathered there in the first place. It’s an act of defiance of the Black stereotype. 

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“Black was seen as bad, substandard, you know, scum of the earth. So we got even blacker, ” says Ian Charles, CEO and Founder of Jambalasee Grenada, a movement ‘committed to documenting and preserving Grenada’s traditional JabJab culture and its sounds to keep it authentic and potent.’ Continuing with the history of the practice, Charles speaks to the portrayals explored in JabJab and why resistance is at JabJab’s core. “You have to understand that JabJab utilizes satire, mockery, ridicule to fight against a system again, which was designed deliberately to mentally, physically, spiritually, break us. So imagine you getting freed, and the very same thing that was used to beat you down, you’re using that now to express your freedom. It just shows you the level of tenacity that our ancestors had.” 

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Often misunderstood by many as the devil’s practice, Charles quickly shuts that down and says, “And one of the major misconceptions is that one, JabJab, is the devil. JabJab isn’t the devil, JabJab is a masquerade. Masquerade means portraying something that you're not, so they're portraying the ills of society, the ills of a system.”

As I ventured down the streets on the Carenage, sounds of conch shells, and chains being dragged flooded my surroundings, all objects that carry deep significance, according to Charles. “So the miscellaneous objects that Jab carries, it ranges from a wide range, but one of the major ones is the broken chains, and that is very symbolic. It represents freedom from bondage, mentally and physically. No one came to the Caribbean willingly, we had to be shackled.” He continues, “Neck, hands, foot, to get to the Caribbean. So the broken chains really symbolizes freedom mentally and physically, from a very oppressed system.”

Road Experience

“Tell the road ah coming,” sings Grenadian music artist Khalifah in one of the bigger songs during Spicemas titled “Road Revenge.” Celebrating that the festivities were coming to a close, thousands took to the streets on Monday and Tuesday to revel in the sounds of JabJab, and wine down the Spice Isle as onlookers smiled. 

Unique to my typical Carnival travels, Spicemas holds Monday Night Mas, a stunning parade of lights, held on Carnival Monday Night where participants and spectators unite on the streets of St George’s. Masqueraders glowed as we wore neon-coloured garments and chipped down the road until four in the morning. Not only do you have the pleasure of attending JabJab and Monday Mas, Grenada offers this unique third option for those who desire an action-packed Carnival experience. 

For Carnival Tuesday, I opted to wear a white costume in the ‘Dream’ section offered by one of Grenada’s top Carnival bands, Lavish The Band. Presenting their theme of the year titled, ‘Fauxlore,’ “a unique experience where Mystical meets Mythical,” my costume took inspiration from The Legend of the La Diablesse, a character in Caribbean folklore.

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Besides the traditional amenities, one of the highlights on Tuesday was seeing traditional Carnival characters along the parade route and an exorbitant amount of floats leading all of the bands. 

Leaving for home a day after Carnival Tuesday, I found myself with tears in my eyes at the airport. I am deeply thankful to the locals who cherish and uphold the traditional elements of Spicemas, keeping its rich roots alive. It was a privilege to immerse myself in a culture that steadfastly honours its heritage.